Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon)

Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon, it seems to be cool to call it Saigon) is a proper city. Much more frenetic and furtive than its Cambodian counterpart, and with almost enough neon fluorescence to rival Hong Kong (almost!). The French influence is more patent here too – pretty little art-deco apartments are stacked in narrow towers along wide boulevards, each one different from the next. Large Western-style electrical and clothes stores share shop space with Eastern-style markets, and each road is connected by networks of narrow criss-crossing alleyways.

We saw the Reunification Palace, the gates of which were smashed by the victorious North Vietnam army to signal the end of the war. We also visited the War Remnants Museum which gave us a good documentary history of the war along with horrific photographic and anecdotal evidence of the barbarities carried out by the Americans: the slaughter of innocent babies, women and children and the use of a devastating chemical called Agent Orange, the effects of which are still being felt in Vietnam today, being the main ones. Granted, they completely omitted any corresponding wrongdoings on the part of the North Vietnam army and the Viet Cong, but still inexcusable behaviour from a ‘civilised’ nation.

11 pence beer!

The number of scooters (known locally as motos) in Saigon is just phenomenal. Hordes of them buzz round the city like relentless swarms of angry wasps. The only rule they seem to follow is that they must honk their horn continuously, all others are ignored; traffic lights are optional as is which side of the road to drive on. In fact, even being on the road itself is optional – the pavements are just as dangerous!

After a few great days in this magnificent city we took the sleeper bus to Nha Trang…

Sihanoukville

Ah Sihanoukville…Probably our favourite place yet. Located on the South coast of Cambodia (the first coast we’ve reached), it’s primarily a party town. We arrived late on the first day and headed straight down to the beach to see kilometres of neon bars and restaurants booming music, fireworks, Happy Hours and free shots, barbecues, fire jugglers and hordes of people, mainly Cambodians celebrating National Woman’s Day (or something like that which had the inevitable effect of pushing up room prices.)

So we had two nights of debauchery, taking full advantage of the Happy Hour beers (at about 15p you can’t really afford not to!) and cheap cocktails, and dancing to cheesy europop.

The only problem was that, due to the nightly festivities, by day the beach was not so nice; and was swarming with people – kids mainly – trying to flog us various things that we really didn’t need (after telling them No for the fifth or sixth time it starts to grate.) So, on the advice of someone that we’d met fleetingly some two weeks previously, we packed up all our worldly belongings (which conveniently fit in a back-pack) and took a boat taxi to Ottres Beach, 5k down the coast.

Ottres Beach was as close to paradise as we’re ever likely to get. We stayed in a bungalow literally 20 yards from the sea, and by day relaxed on the pristine white beach and swam in the unbelievably warm crystalline blue water. It was so secluded (largely because it doesn’t feature in the Lonely Planet guidebook) that our friends and us were pretty much alone on the beach. One unexpected bonus was the sunset: unreal.

Apparently the bamboo bars, restaurants and guest houses which adorn the beach front are all earmarked for destruction within 2 years, and the big hotel chains are moving in. So we feel incredibly lucky to have experienced this amazing beach as it is now. We only planned to spend 2 nights in Sihanoukville, but we’re still here a week later!

We’ve sufficiently recharged our batteries to tackle the next country on our itinerary…Vietnam! Bus to Ho Chi Minh City (previously Saigon) tomorrow morning, a mere 12 hours.